Hondata

I don't think so. The car continues accelerating to the rev limiter without issue.
Both the plate and pedal remain at 100%.
It should stay in "Open-Driving" mode throughout the entire WOT.
Something is causing this erroneous condition.

I still don't understand why it's changing to "Open-Cold"

You cannot disable closed loop in the calibration. IT must still have the OEM snsor for closed loop to work correctly and the aftermarket wideband is only used for datalogging purposes. The is setup in the Options, Settings, Lambda overlay tab.


I have the stock O2 sensor, and I don't understand ...

Spunkster wrote: Wed Jul 01, 2026 9:17 am Post the calibration the datalog was made with

It's similar to the one in the initial post; I've attached a more recent version.

Has anyone else had this problem? Can anyone help me?
I still can't find the issue. In WOT, it switches to Open-Cold for no reason, then switches to Closed.
I can't find any incorrect settings or sensors with erroneous data.

I don't see any errors and short term fuel trim appears to be acting normally.


Another thing I noticed, and I don't recall if I mentioned it before, is that at the VTEC point, it displays "Open - Cold" and then switches to "Closed Loop." From that point until the cutoff, it remains closed ...

It shouldn't activate in wot, I don't understand why it doesn't stay in Open Loop, after engaging VTEC it switches to closed, I can't understand why it does that.

I tried it with everything updated and got the same result, so it seems to happen after engaging VTEC.
Attached log

I tried checking for updates, and it seems I have the latest version. However, I don't fully understand the versions mentioned in the message.
It seems I'm using the beta versions, but I don't remember selecting that.

https://i.ibb.co/x8szDxT1/versiones.png

I can try reinstalling everything ...

The serial number is FP-SI-US-15091

I'm not home right now, but I'll be back on Thursday and I'll share the information.

I don't know if this is relevant as additional information, but this car had a K20 engine, then a complete K24Z1, and now a K20/K24. I didn't have these problems before.

The only thing I remember modifying ...

Another thing that sometimes happens is that while the car is idling and I connect the Hondata, it revs slightly and then returns to normal.
Could this be an internal problem with the device?

It's the original wiring, it would be strange but I'll check.
Another strange thing that sometimes happens is that when I connect it, the Hondata's lights keep blinking until I disconnect it from the car and the computer. When I reconnect it, it works correctly.

Is it just the O2 sensor wiring or ...

Does anyone have any idea what might be happening?

Hi, how are you?
This is the first time I've seen this. I can't figure it out because I'm still getting corrections in WOT.

The car is a K20/K24 build with 12.5 RC cams.

I made several maps for different friends' cars, with different configurations, but this is happening with mine.

I've attached ...