13' Civic Si. Running Reflash. Tune help.

[ZoloFG4]

Received my flash pro today and went ahead and used the US CIVIC SI 2012-2014, Hondata Reflash base calibration from the drop down menu. The "first data log" is from the base tune. The other data log is also from the base tune. I decided to tweak the base tune based off a few parameter changes. Wanted to have someone review that "edited reflash" base tune because i am wanting to use it as a starting point to begin tuning my vehicle. From the data logs it looks that my ecu is pulling too much timing. I will be pulling data logs during the week. Currently only running a cat delete 3" exhaust and a 3" cat back exhaust. Data logs are not from the calibration provided but were captured with the base tune stated at the begging of the post.

[ZoloFG4]

When tuning fuel, do I start with the 0 degree timing and then move to the next degree mark? Or do you leave 0 degree alone? Going to be running my modified calibration when I get home and begin tuning that file. It’s the one attached to the post prior. Also would 0 degree mostly be my idle and decal?

[ZoloFG4]

So, I haven’t enabled MAP tuning. I have instead focused on tuning my MAF calibration, since I’m still fully stock other than my exhaust. It’s been fun learning and. Making adjustments to the MAF calibration table. Almost have it dialed in to +\- 1%. Once I know that is dialed in I want to clean up my ignition tables and start making changes to my VTC tables. I’ve played around with googles AI ask feature to generate cleaned up tables from the images of the stock ignition and VTC tables. I’ m not currently running those tables, but want to make those changes after my MAF calibration and AFR are stable. I’m wondering if I should change over to MAP tuning or wait till I get a CAI? I kind of understand cleaning up fuel tables better now when running MAP based tune vs MAF based tune. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[ZoloFG4]

After quite a few revisions and many logs later i believe this will be my final MAF tune file. the log i took was too long to attach to this post so i will need to take a few short logs, which i will be doing tomorrow. My current issue is that the car is pulling timing and retarding up to 10 degrees. Once im a bit more comfortable, i will start pulling some timing in those areas and see if any changes occur. I was curious if this is happening due to extra vibration from installing the 3" ... exhaust. The flex portion of the pipe does rattle quite a bit so I'm curious if that is producing ghost knock. any advice would be great

[ZoloFG4]

I’ve been playing around with the MAF tune base calibration file. It’s pretty good. I’ve had to make some adjustments to the MAF calibration, but so far so good. Not running lean. Mostly rich. I want to play around with the IGN timing tables, as far as I can tell they are pretty close to stock with a few minor adjustments. What are some basic rules when applying changes to timing? Also, why does Honda apply so much timing to their stock calibration? I’m also having trouble with what I believe is false knock due to my 3” ... exhaust rattling. Nothing is loose, but I believe the noise from the flex pipe is triggering the knock sensor to record knock events. The files attached were my attempt at lowering the overall timing from the stock timing tables and editing the knock ignition limits.

[ZoloFG4]

Am i safe fundamentally deactivating knock control, having some phantom knock due to my ... down pipe causing residual noise.

[k24raj]

How bad is your exhaust vibrating? Do you feel it in the vehicle? What exhaust are you running? When you say 3" exhaust are you referring to the catback or the exhaust? I've only ever had exhaust rattling when I first installed my Skunk2 Megapower RR catback and that never triggered any knock codes, although this was with the stock exhaust so it wouldn't have been much impact on the knock sensor. Take note of what rpm the "knock" is happening as well. If it's caused by the exhaust vibrating, you may notice it being worse at specific rpms like 1.5k, 3k, 6k. I haven't looked at the datalogs since I'm writing this in class, but holla back- Maybe I could at least offer an extra braincell or two.

[ZoloFG4]

I'm running a speedzone performance 3" cts dp. i only went cts as it was a cheaper option i found online and wanted to give it a shot. Paired with the Rev 9 Flow maxx 3" cat back exhaust. I do feel the deep rumble from my exhaust under certain loads and rpm. It feels like bass vibrations from a subwoofer. The flex pipe also rattles between 2000 and 3000 rpm and around 1200 to 2000 on decel. To my understanding the Knock control logic honda implements is strictly a safety cushion incase you put in low octane fuel. It adjusts timing accordingly when it noticed knock induced by low quality fuel. i also understand that the sensors on the 9th gen are particularly sensitive. I will post my current Calibration file with a work around I want to implement. To explain some, I did use google Ai search feature to brainstorm and more so understand how all this works, i copied my IGN tables to my Knock IGN limit tables (KIL) applied -3 degrees of timing globally to columns 1-8 and applied -5 degrees globally to columns 9 and 10. I did this process to all KIL tables. So, the KIL tables follow my IGN tables with a -3 to -5 reduction, when k control spikes ign retard is capped even at 100% K control. I also set both my low and high retard tables to 1.6 columns 1 to 8 and 3 degrees on columns 9 and 10. You can see the attached cal file. I only run 93 octane. Prior I Simply reduced the knock retard tables by 75%. Knock counts were lower after the change. I seriously doubt im having real knock occur, I haven't been doing any 3rd gear pulls as I'm trying to get the MAF calibration dialed in so the fueling isn't all over the place from a bad calibration. My other issue is i've been taking longer data logs and thee files are too large to share here. The v36 file is what i ran today. And the v37 file is my workaround by changing the KIL and knock retard tables.

[ZoloFG4]

i will upload a different tune and try and get some shorter data logs so you can view the info. I've seen tuners zero out the knock retard tables to bypass the knock control. I want to try that but still want some protection incase i do have actual knock. From the research I've done what I'm experiencing is ghost knock. I still have my stock DP so maybe ill put that back on and compare data logs. If the knock control falls to normal values than it is the DP for sure. i would rather not do that haha

[k24raj]

First, I'll say don't put the stick dp back on. You'll have to adjust the tune to get it running right just the same way you have to adjust it rn. I won't tell you to disable the knock sensors but vibrations in the exhaust will definitely trigger ghost knock. If the car is backfiring at all, it could show up as knock retard. If the exhaust is hitting something it could also show up as knock retard. Check knock retard and knock count when you feel the vibrations from the exhaust. How does the car perform when its reading knock? Does it rev differently? Your ignition tables seem decent, similar to mine after a quick glance so I don't think there's anything wrong there.