Hondata

Hello, I'm pretty new to the Honda scene in general, I swapped a K24 into my 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon, I have a KproV4, KPower RWD Intake Manifold, CarrotTopTuning wiring harness, and many other parts to make this setup work. I have the engine running decently, but one thing I have not been able to get to work at all is the IACV. I have it enabled in my tune as far as I'm aware, which I'll attach, as maybe there's something I'm missing. From cold, it idles around 800, and as it warms up it comes up to 1200, sometimes 1400. Basically it's pretty clear the valve is not doing anything, I have the port open on the manifold where it get's the IACV intake based on the valve position, that port always has a suction, and if I plug it with my finger the engine stalls, so somewhere between plugged and open is a nice idle, which is what the IACV should be taking care of, right? I'm fairly certain I don't have any vacuum leaks, nevertheless even if I did I don't think it would cause anything like what's happening.

Can someone take a look at my tune just to verify the IACV is fully enabled? Other than that does anyone have any tests I can do on the IACV to verify it's working, from what I've researched it's a stepper motor, but what does that "signal" wire (pin 3 on the connector) do? Key on I get power at the middle pin, ground at the first pin, and at that signal pin it seems like it's grounded as I see battery voltage when probing against the middle power pin. I've tested continuity with that signal pin against ECU connector pin A12 and it beeps, so that wiring should be good. I'm just worried something may be wrong with my KproV4.

Any advice or recommendations for what to test is greatly appreciated, I can't wait to start tuning this thing and making some boost.

Tune:

The K-series idle controller is a rotary valve and is known for getting stuck. Make sure you clean it out and that it rotates properly.

Sorry I definitely should’ve noted more of my process. I was in a rush before work to post the tune here.

I originally had one junkyard iacv because I prefer oem and I’m on a budget, I cleaned it out and made sure it spun freely and applied a little bit of silicone grease around the bearing part. Then when that one didn’t work after a good bit of troubleshooting I figured maybe the electronics were bad and got another one from the junkyard that was cleaner, still cleaned it with the same process and same result.

Also something I forgot to note, when I unplug the valve while the engine is running there is no change to the idle. I know this also points to it getting stuck, but do you or anyone know if there’s anyway to check the output of the signal from the ecu with a multimeter to see if it’s even valid or changing?

Have you tried your ECU in a known working vehilce?

It was the idle air control valve, to anyone in the future who has cleaned theirs and still has a low idle when cold and a high idle when hot, make sure if the pintle (metal part that spins) comes out when removing the rotary motor, that it gets fully seated when you put it back on.

Engine is idling perfectly again, so relieved.

Also some data, just in case anyone wants to check stuff like I did, key on engine off, IACV plugged in, probe the PWM wire (pin 3) and measure voltage against ground, if you don’t see 12v, your ecu is fine, and you either have a wiring issue, or your valve is bad (most likely dirty or stuck for another reason like mine was)