Getting knock only at light load

[matthewho23]

Hello everyone, I need some help for my tune.

I have been trying to solve this problem.
Little info about the car:
2010 Civic Si
Stock Engine K20Z3
Ktuned Race headers + Invidia N1 3inch exhaust with no cat
Custom ducting to lower grill to feed direct air to stock intake
ORC 309D Clutch

I am getting knock (10-20 each time) registered in cylinder #3 at first to third gear around 2000-4000 rpm during part throttle. Most noticeable is when I am pulling away from a stand still. Knock Control also rises to 90-100% (it will very slowly go back down to 80~% when cruising) This all kind of thing never happened during high load or WOT and even at the track.

I tried different kind of adjustment in the tune, but none of it helped.
I already tried lowering ignition timing, adding more fuel at those load zones, add more tip in fuel etc...

Everything else in the tune "I think" should be ok in terms of the AFR, Cam Angle and such.
I am not sure if its something related to the mechanical from the engine because even with the stock tune the car behave the same....

I would love to have some of you give me some input on this issue. Much appreciated!

I will upload my tune and some datalog here later today.

[Rares]

Noise and vibrations from the exhaust. Most likely you need to adjust the sensitivity of the knock sensor in low load.

[matthewho23]

Noise and vibrations from the exhaust. Most likely you need to adjust the sensitivity of the knock sensor in low load.

I did lower the sensitivity by a bit, I dont want to go too far as I still want it to catch real knock.
One interesting point is that knock always happen when the car is warm, like after 10 mins of driving.

I attached my most recent tune and log. I again lower the ignition timing, I think it helped a little but the knock control still went up high (car is running 94 Octane btw). And knock retard again pulling timing.

[CalibratEd]

If you have already lowered the timing and the knock did not go away, you can dismiss it as a false knock. Something may be loose or rattling. I would not mess with the sensitivity tables.

- Ed

[matthewho23]

If you have already lowered the timing and the knock did not go away, you can dismiss it as a false knock. Something may be loose or rattling. I would not mess with the sensitivity tables.

- Ed

The knock level is always at 30-70% when driving. I adjusted the sensitivity table with higher number than the knock level to the area get high and give little bit of head room. Vs before I only added 10% to the sensitivity numbers . And now the knock control goes from 100% to right now 44% and no knock count registered.

I don’t know if it’s the right way or not but I think it’s working now.